Hilsa in the Heights: Bangladeshi Eating in Queens

  On the corner of 37th Ave and 73rd Street in Jackson Heights, Queens, one might notice an abundance of brightly colored carts, each seeming to advertise itself as the foremost vendor with declarations such as “we are the original,” and the vague “we are real.” These carts represent a prominent yet sometimes overlooked community in Jackson Heights: Bangladeshis.

Over the last decade, Bangladeshi immigration to America has increased, concentrating in Jackson Heights. Their food and culture have integrated into the neighborhood, where restaurants, street carts, currency exchanges, and other Bangladeshi establishments can be found, despite threats in the form of immigration enforcement.

There has been a concentrated community of Bangladeshis in Jackson Heights for years. While many Bangladeshis also live in Michigan, California, Texas, and New Jersey, 44 percent of people in America who identify as solely Bangladeshi live in New York, according to the Pew Research Center. Despite making up just 1.2 percent of the population of New York City in the 2020 census, they made up 5.2 percent of Jackson Heights. 73rd Street, in particular, is a hub for the Bangladeshi community in the neighborhood. Many Bangladeshis move to the US to seek economic opportunity. They are drawn to Jackson Heights because of the pre-established community there.

Bangladeshi restaurants are an integral part of the community in Jackson Heights. Because not many New Yorkers understood the difference between South Asian cuisines, Bangladeshi spots would advertise themselves as Bangladeshi, Indian, and Pakistani restaurants. Recently, though, as more Americans start to understand the nuances of South Asian cultures, they’ve been distinguishing themselves as Bangladeshi alone. Jamie Rahman, a worker at Premium Sweets & Restaurant, called the restaurant “110 percent Bangladeshi.”

One typical offering at Bangladeshi restaurants is biryani, a dish with variations based on regions and ingredients. To make biryani, rice flavored with spices such as saffron, cardamom, and bay leaves and marinated meats such as goat, chicken, and beef are layered together, then covered and cooked. Fish is also a popular centerpiece of Bangladeshi dishes. Hilsa, or ilish, as it is known to Bangladeshis, is the national fish of Bangladesh. Although it is a sea fish, it swims up rivers to give birth, where it is caught and eaten. 97 percent of the world’s supply of hilsa is from Bangladesh, and the fish has become an important part of the nation’s culture as a wedding gift, the subject of colloquial expressions, and, of course, as a meal. Hilsa is often served as part of a curry or with a savory sauce. In Bangladeshi cooking, meat and fish is commonly eaten with pulao, an aromatic rice dish that includes saffron and hints of sweetness from caramelized onions. A traditional breakfast food or side dish is bhorta, a savory dish made with mashed fish or vegetables mixed with mustard oil, chilies, and shallots. Bhorta and other foods are often eaten with roti, a flatbread typical across South Asia.

Another Bangladeshi food that is particularly prominent in Jackson Heights is fuchka. This popular street food in Bangladesh consists of hollow, fried balls made from semolina flour, filled with mashed chickpeas, potatoes, onions, cilantro, and tangy tamarind sauce and topped with an egg slice and spicy green chili peppers. They are especially common in the country’s capital, Dhaka, where seemingly endless street vendors serve the dish. Over the past few years, fuchka carts, often run by Bangladeshi immigrants, have become increasingly widespread in neighborhoods with large South Asian populations, particularly in Jackson Heights. Fuchka contains a complex taste that piques the interest of both immigrants and curious New Yorkers alike. For South Asian immigrants, fuchka provides a reminder of home, and for others, it offers a flavorful and affordable street food experience.

Opened in 2018, Tong claims to be the first fuchka cart in America and began as a one-man operation by Naeem Khandaker. After Tong opened, several other fuchka spots sprang up on the same block, on the corner of 37th Ave and 73rd St. These vendors have garnered attention from social media and news outlets, but also from the Bangladeshis of Jackson Heights, eager for a taste of home. Tong now has several food carts and brick-and-mortar restaurants across New York City.

The Bangladeshi community has been endangered by new immigration policy, though. Since 2012, immigrants from Bangladesh have not been eligible to apply for diversity visas, also known as the ‘green card lottery.’ Furthermore, businesses have been hit hard by recent Immigrations and Customs Enforcement (ICE) raids. Mr. Rahman, who immigrated to America about 30 years ago, shared how recent immigration crackdowns have shaken the neighborhood. Immigrants, who composed 60 percent of Jackson Heights as of 2019, are apprehensive about leaving their homes for fear of being arrested or deported by ICE. Therefore, local restaurants have seen a drop in customers.

“People have been afraid to come out,” said Mr. Rahman. We spoke to Mr. Rahman, however, in a full restaurant. In the background of our conversation, friends conversed, families dined, and babies cried. In Premium Sweets & Restaurant, Bangladeshi culture seemed alive and well. Despite the challenges the Bangladeshi community of Jackson Heights faces, it remains as steadfast and vivacious as the hilsa, stubbornly swimming up the rivers of Bangladesh.